How to Properly Hook Up a Car Amplifier Inside the House: Hello everybody, recently i bought car amplifier for repair and decided that im gonna replace my. If you've got a car amplifier you'd like to use in your home, there's one major obstacle to overcome: how to power the amplifier. Wall outlets provide volt AC power, but amplifiers require volt DC power. Plug the inverter into a wall socket and turn on the inverter to power.
Joined Apr 4, Messages Hey Ok so I am going to buy a Subwoofer Sony Xplod W and a car amp Don't remember make, but W 2 channel w per channel output, and bridgeable from a friend of mine. R isn't too bad for that is it? Anyway, the problem is that I want to use this sub and amp in my home. Now I know the amp requires 12V w input, and that is my problem.
I read on the net that you can use a PC power supply to power a amp like that. On the other hand a another friend of mine that studied electronic engineering at tukkies said that he would pay me R if I could get that working because he can't see the logic in how that will work, he went on about amps required etc. And I only have 2 separate W pc power supplies that I can use. So will it work and if not which is the cheapest and most effective way to power that amp in my home? Joined Oct 24, Messages Rather spend the R bucks extra that you might need for the PSU and put that money in for a real home theater amp.
Joined Feb 22, Messages It will work with the PSU.
My friend does it to test amps. The problem is for the sub you will either a few psu's or a high wattage one. You could try getting a invertor. Fuzzbox Senior Member Oct 31, Joined Jun 10, Messages Not nearly enough to drive the amp to its fullest Also Pc power supplies are not filtered very well so you might get a lot of HUM coming through Best of luck. Joined Oct 8, Messages 1, Joined Sep 16, Messages 6, Found this dunno if it will help - http: A UPS will make a good high amperage power supply and you can pick them up much cheaper than PSU's so they may be worth looking into Just a suggestion Pitbull Verboten Oct 31, Joined Apr 8, Messages 59, Dolby Honorary Master Oct 31, Joined Jan 31, Messages 25, But those variable ones don't change amps I'm not sure how many amps a car amplifier uses, but if it's more than 2 - I don't think you'll get a variable for R A UPS only supplies v when your mains fails.
You cannot use this for car amp as it is 12V or are you all missing the point. If the amp puts out w you probably need about 80A. Did anyone here do science or some thing in this region at school? Ok , first of all, thanx for all the replies From all the suggestions this is what I think my options are: BTW how much are you willing to pay for that amp and sub already built into a proper box?
The amp is mounted to the box? To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel a 2 channel amp rated at watts RMS per channel would be watts.
The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw. DanH Expert Member Nov 1, Joined Apr 23, Messages 1, Power amps can get quite hot to the touch. When you select a location, make sure the cooling fins have plenty of space around them to dissipate heat which will radiate upward.
Can you use car stereo equipment in a home stereo? Joined Oct 8, Messages 1, Just connect both ends of the wire into the switch. So over the entire frequency range the impedance would remain four ohms. Joined Oct 24, Messages And to think I only paid R!!! I'm not sure how many amps a car amplifier uses, but if it's more than 2 - I don't think you'll get a variable for R
The fins should face the sides or top of the amp. Mounting an amplifier upside down is a no-no, because the cooling fins will be on the bottom and dissipated heat will radiate back up inside the amplifier unit where it can't escape. You will also want to leave enough room around the sides of the amp to connect wiring and make adjustments for boost, crossover, and other factors.
Typical amplifier mounting locations include under the passenger side dash, under a seat, or in the trunk or hatch area. There are pro's and con's to each choice. Under the dash or seat keeps the wiring to the receiver shorter, but can be awkward to install. The seat may need to be temporarily removed. Cargo capacity can be compromised.
According to experts, loose or poor ground wiring is a leading cause of stereo sound system problems and underperformance. Interestingly, it's also the 1 cause of any electrical issue on a vehicle. All amplifiers require a separate ground wire, so it is important to find an ideal spot to make that connection.
One easy choice is an existing ground point. Look for a wire or cable already connected to a bolt that screws into the body or chassis. If you decide to create a new ground point, you will need to drill a hole NOTE! Check that you have clearance on the other side , and scrape away any paint, undercoating, etc. An appropriately-sized sheet metal screw and star washer will maximize the quality of the ground connection. With the amplifier location decided, you must now plan the running of wires from it to the battery, head unit, and speakers.
If the new amp is installed in the trunk, you will need to plan a way to route the wiring from rear to front while keeping it hidden and protected. Some partial disassembly will be required to place the wires under carpeting. Consider routing the wiring where access is easily gained, such as under door sill plates, kick panels, pillar post trim panels, and removable rear seat cushions. Usually, these components can be unscrewed or pried loose from the edges rather easily. Your amp will draw power directly from the vehicle's positive battery terminal, so there will also be the need to run a power cable through the vehicle's firewall.
Most vehicles will already have such a hole drilled as a pass-through for other cables, so locate this hole and run your wiring through it. Your amp should come with a power cable that's approximately 15 to 19 feet long. From the battery in the engine compartment, you will be running this wire through the firewall and underneath panels described in the previous paragraph until it reaches the amp. Your installation package will come with a fuse holder. It may already be integrated into your power cable, but if it isn't then you'll need to install it yourself.
The industry standard is that the fuse should be no further than 18" from the battery; less than 12" away is preferable. Cut a " long section of power wire, attach it to one end of the fuse holder, and attach the other end of the cable to the other fuse holder end.
Use appropriate wire stripping and crimping tools to connect terminals, or solder them and cover with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape. The connection at the battery positive cable is typically made with a ring terminal.
Do NOT attach it to the battery post itself. The next step is pulling the radio out see our related article on Car Audio Installation and locating the "amplifier turn-on wire" leading from it — typically, it's blue in color. Your amplifier will have a lead designed to mate with this wire, and they can be crimped or soldered together based on your own preference. Once they're connected, the turn-on wire will automatically cue the amp to power up once the radio is turned on. Reference the two illustrations at the beginning of this article to see the blue turn-on wire.